Ice Climbing Demystified: A Beginner's Journey into Frozen Verticals
Your Ultimate Guide to Ice Climbing: Top Tips, Equipment and More
Ice climbing is a challenging and rewarding sport!
Read our guide to getting started in your ice climbing journey, including top tips and a full equipment list.
An ice climber in action!
Climbing is one of the most challenging and extraordinary sports in the world, offering a unique opportunity to appreciate the awe-inspiring beauty and force of nature.
You get to witness breathtaking views, all while conquering each and every climb. This sport is a gift that keeps on giving, providing endless excitement and fulfilment for the climber.
While climbing itself is already quite a demanding and tough sport, if you're looking to take it up a notch, we recommend trying out ice climbing.
Ice climbing is the winter counterpart of rock climbing.
This sport is super challenging and requires your full, undivided attention to avoid a slip - and the thrill, excitement and sense of accomplishment you experience after a competition is addictive.
Once you give ice climbing a try, there's a good chance you'll fall in love with it!
In this article, we will introduce you to the exhilarating world of ice climbing, including all the details you need to get started in this awesome sport.
What is Ice Climbing?
Ice climbing is an exhilarating winter sport that involves scaling frozen waterfalls, ice formations and steep ice-covered cliffs using specialised equipment.
Originating in the early 20th century as a way for mountaineers to access higher elevations, ice climbing has since evolved into a challenging and popular activity worldwide.
The origins of the sport can be traced back to the European Alps. This is where climbers first began using ice axes and crampons to ascend icy slopes.
Over time, it spread to other mountainous regions across the globe, including North America, the Himalayas and the Canadian Rockies.
Today, ice climbers can go to numerous countries and choose from various ice formations, ranging from delicate icicles to huge frozen waterfalls.
Needless to say, each climb presents its own set of challenges and requires adaptability and problem-solving skills - and ice climbers must adjust their skills and techniques depending on the terrain.
In general, ice climbing requires a unique set of skills that combine elements of rock climbing and mountaineering.
Ice climbers need to master techniques such as ice tool placement, using crampons for foot traction and efficient body positioning on icy surfaces to complete their climbs successfully.
Ice Climbing - Tips For Beginners
As a sport, ice climbing can be quite alluring. However, before you dive head-first into ice climbing outside, there are a couple of things to consider for your own safety.
Here are a few tips for beginners wanting to get started in this sport!
1. Your First Time Should Be With a Professional Ice Climber or Crew
Don’t try out ice climbing for the first time on your own. We recommend hiring a guide or going with an experienced, trusted friend or group of climbers.
This is the safest option, as experienced friends, mentors or professionals can share their experiences with you.
This can help you set up the ropes for your first climb, and your crew can share their techniques so that you get a better, deeper understanding of the sport as you learn.
2. Bring Plenty of Gloves
You need to bring plenty of gloves to your first ice-climbing expedition.
Make sure to prioritise quality when choosing your ice-climbing gloves. You will need to invest in high-quality gloves specifically designed for ice-climbing demands.
Nonetheless, you will also need to bring more than one or two pairs. They don’t all have to be high quality, but you can switch to the highest-quality gloves once your other gloves get wet.
No matter how good or fancy your climbing gloves are, or how great they work, unfortunately, at some point throughout your climb, they will get soaked and become useless.
Whether it’s due to a particularly wet ice route or just a case of sweaty hands, sooner or later you will run out of gloves and you’ll need to use another pair. That’s why you need plenty of them.
For a full day of climbing you will need to go with at least four pairs of gloves: one pair for the approach hike, two pairs for climbing and one warmer pair for belaying and resting at the base.
3. Be Aware of the Infamous Pump
When ice climbing, you may experience the "pump" sensation, particularly in your forearms and calves.
This happens due to a build-up of lactic acid, leading to muscle fatigue and reduced grip strength.
To minimise the pump and enjoy a full day of climbing, we advise you to:
Warm up by climbing lower-angle routes before tackling steeper ice lines to avoid getting pumped too quickly
Avoid over-gripping your ice tool, as holding it too tightly can tire your forearms faster. Experiment with lighter grips to find a solid connection without unnecessary tension
Choose thinner gloves than you may expect, as thicker gloves can make it harder to grip your ice tool and contribute to faster muscle fatigue. Medium-light gloves with good dexterity are ideal
Shake your arms out during the climb when you find a secure stance. This practice provides a brief rest for your arms and reduces the pump factor
While climbing lower-angle flows, avoid constantly standing on your tippy-toes. Instead, kick your crampons into the ice at a slight upward angle to improve stability and reduce strain on your calves. Trust your crampons to do most of the work when standing on your feet
Ice Climbing Equipment
If you have experience with rock climbing, then some of the equipment for ice climbing will be familiar to you.
However, there are also a few specific ice climbing equipment items you'll need to rent, buy or borrow.
Harness
For ice climbing, you can use the same type of harness as you would for rock climbing. Just make sure it fits comfortably over your clothing layers by trying it on beforehand.
Look for a harness with adjustable leg loops to accommodate additional layers.
If you want a harness specifically designed for ice climbing, consider one with ice clipper slots to attach holsters for your ice screws.
Helmet
You can also borrow your helmet from your rock climbing equipment. However, here is the catch - you need to make sure that you can fit a beanie underneath if you’re not choosing a special ice-climbing helmet.
Mountaineering Boots
When choosing mountaineering boots, consider the options available based on stiffness, warmth, toe and heel welts, as well as overall fit. Remember, comfort is crucial for a successful climb.
When choosing, look for boots with full toe and heel welts to use step-in crampon bindings effectively on hard ice.
Plastic boots: these boots include a separate, removable inner boot, which is why they are also called double boots; they are stiff, compatible with crampons, and offer insulation
Leather boots: these are quite durable and comfortable after you break them, and they provide protection on sharp ice and rock
Synthetic boots: these are lightweight and require less break-in time, but they also offer less support on hard ice
Getting recommendations from people who have experience in climbing in the same area as you can help, as they will know which type of boots may be preferable for specific conditions and terrain.
Crampons
Crampons are another must-have ice climbing essential as they provide the traction necessary to climb the slippery, upward-sloping and vertical ice.
There are a few types to choose from, and which one is best will depend on your specific needs. All of them are great, but they have specific purposes:
Dual-Point crampons: these have two front points, either horizontal for versatile walking or vertical for steep and mixed routes
Mono-Point crampons: these have a single front point and are great for technical and mixed climbing
Modular front points: these allow you to replace only the front point if it gets damaged, which is convenient for climbers frequently on mixed routes
Binding System
Based on which boots you have, you will need to choose an adequate binding system:
Strap bindings: these are easy to put on and transfer between boots but not ideal for vertical climbs
Step-in bindings: these require boots with toe and heel welts, advantageous for technical climbs
Hybrid bindings: these offer the convenience of both strap and heel clips for quick adjustments
Ice Axes and Ice Tools
There are a few essential tools for ice climbing, which also come in several different shapes and types.
Traditional ice axes are longer and used for general mountaineering and walking on low-angle snow and glaciers
Technical axes are essentially two shorter ice tools. These are a better option for vertical ice climbing as they have a curved shaft for better grip
Ice tools can be equipped with either a hammer or an adze opposite the ice pick. The hammer is used for pounding in pitons, while the adze functions like a small shovel for cutting steps and digging snow anchors. In the past, climbers would use one ice tool with an adze and another with a hammer, but nowadays it's more common to have both tools with a hammer
Leashes can be attached to your wrist or harness to prevent tool loss, but many climbers now prefer leash-less tools for better hand placement and freedom of movement
The ice pick curve refers to the pointy end of the tool. The classic curve, found on most mountaineering axes, is suitable for self-arrest and works well on steeper terrain.
The reverse curve, on the other hand, is commonly seen on ice tools, and this curve makes it easier to remove the pick from the ice, saving energy during vertical climbs.
Ice Screws
Ice screws are essential for protection and anchor points in ice climbing.
They have a tubular shape with a handle for easier insertion and removal, allowing ice cores to be removed easily. Here too, the number of screws to bring depends on ice conditions and the route.
Ice Climbing Rope
Ice climbing ropes need to be dry-treated to prevent moisture absorption. This tool is quite similar to a rock climbing rope on first look but is designed to withstand a wet environment.
Carabiners and Quickdraws
Carabiners and quickdraws can be the same as rock climbing gear, but consider lightweight wire gate carabiners that are less likely to freeze up in cold temperatures.
Climbing-Specific Backpacks
Climbing-specific backpacks provide ample space for extra gear and any layers needed in ice climbing.
Adequate Clothing and Outerwear
It is crucial to find adequate clothing and outerwear for your ice-climbing expedition.
Start with a moisture-wicking base layer made of wool or synthetic materials to stay comfortable while sweating. In cold conditions, layer up with a mid-layer like a fleece or insulated jacket for added warmth.
Most ice climbers prefer soft shell jackets for their ability to block wind, resist moisture and offer breathability during physical exertion.
However, if the climbing route is extremely wet, a hard shell jacket is a better choice.
Another vital piece of clothing is the gloves. They are necessary for warmth and dexterity. Always bring more pairs with you than you think you may need.
Carry lightweight gloves for the approach, medium-weight gloves for climbing and thick, insulated gloves for belaying. Consider waterproof options too.
These are just some of the very basic necessities you need to know before starting to practice the sport and meet your team.
As soon as you start to dive deeper into the sport, you will learn more about adequate terrains for climbing, as well as various techniques.
Have you ever tried ice climbing? Do you have any tips for beginners? Tell us about your experiences in the comments!
